The Suit That Suits You
Choosing the right suit that suits your body type is very important. Suits are not ‘one size fits all’ fashion items. Even if you’ve put on a high-end luxurious suit but look as though you are uncomfortable with it, you are bound to be scrutinised and ridiculed for putting it on. A suit should bring out the best in a man and successfully highlight his good qualities – this is why selecting the right suit is crucial.
#The Tall Man
If you are the same height as Tim Robbins or Liam Neeson, then basically you are a tall man. Tall mend should avoid wearing vertical patterns such as the pinstripe. If he chooses to do so, choose stripes which are much wider in scale to counter balance the tall lanky stature. Patterns with horizontal bias such as checks is a good option. Try not to show too much of the cuffs on your sleeve and ask for a decent amount of break in your trouser so that your long legs don’t look too lanky.
By now you should already have the right idea of the kind of suit you should be wearing, but also consider this, wearing the belt instead of side-adjusters is helpful because the visual of the belt breaks the vertical orientation of your height. You may also wear the odd jacket and contrast trousers combination to create a separation of the upper and lower body. Have length of the jacket slightly longer. With all these being done, it will add more width and body to your tall figure.
#The Large Man
Men whose waists are larger than their chests face the problem of finding clothes that do not make them appear larger than they actually are. More often than not what fits the heavy man in the shoulders is too small in the waist; therefore, the larger man should seek a jacket with a generous cut and flattering drape. Do not try to wear form fitting clothing; it’s better to have a loose fit around the midsection to avoid tight bunching which screams excess girth. The heavy man cannot conceal his size, but his clothing can serve the purpose of refocusing his observers’ attention to his face. Think Jack Black, Seth Rogen and maybe Jonah Hill.
Vertical lines and dark solid colours are a friend of the heavy man because they create the illusion of height and thin the silhouette, and anything that stretches you in height helps with lessening the appearance of the midsection. Again, no fabric or pattern will make the large man look thin – but the right choice here will give him a powerful and elegant form.
As for style, the heavy man should lean towards two button jackets with a deep “V” to help elongate the chest. Peak lapels on a single breasted suit can create more vertical lines (and their width helps the suit’s proportions), as do slanted pockets help chisel away breadth from the midsection. Like a short man, a man with a large midsection is best served when he wears trousers higher than his hips. Instead of his trousers “squeezing” him, they drape over the bottom of the stomach and create the illusion of longer legs. For large men who have not discovered suspenders, please explore this option.
#The Short Man
If you are similar in height to Tom Cruise or maybe more like Danny DeVito you should avoid loud, complicated patterns or prints on your suit. These are visually distracting and draw attention to your height. Sticking to solids or stripes is the way to go as these help create the illusion of a longer silhouette. Do pay attention to the number of buttons on your jackets would draw more visual attention to your torso and also ‘lengthen’ it, making your legs appear shorter. Also, do not wear wide neckties and wide lapels.
Now that you have avoided all these, consider wearing higher rise trousers and wear it on the waist to create a longer leg illusion. Avoid trouser cuffs and match the suit you are wearing with a more slender shaped shoe. Think about wearing dark coloured suits and try not to mismatch the top and the bottom as this will not help us achieve a seamless top down vertical orientation.
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