The finer details of making a bespoke shirt.
One size does not fit all as no two body sizes are created the same. But that’s something you won’t be experiencing with bespoke tailoring. Menswear finds its greatest pleasure in the almost perfect fit and the team at Wardrobe understands that. By providing their expertise and making sure you get the full experience from when you first enter the door to when you put on the final product, you can be assured of quality. Here, we take a look at how a bespoke shirt is made.
Wardrobe believes that good quality materials is where it all starts for everything else to fall into place. Offering only pure cotton from India and Europe instead of synthetics like polyester, this natural material’s two-ply construction – luxurious and breathable – is perfect for Malaysian weather. With experience and through touching and feeling the fabric, making sure it’s not too thin or too think, Wardrobe finds the best and most suitable type of fabric for our clientele. Using two-ply thread that’s firm and won’t fade, we offers fabrics of 80s up to 200s thread count. This signifies the number of cotton threads woven together lengthwise and widthwise into one inch of fabric.
Yet, a bespoke shirt is more than just its material. The technical aspect of its execution has to be perfect – no room for estimations. Our team will take at least 13 upper body measurements that will be translated onto paper, then onto fabric. What’s great about a bespoke shirt is its full personalisation to you and you alone. Men don’t just differ in shape from each other; a man is not even symmetrical. Plus, by taking into account all shorts of body shapes and postures, whether it’s clients with bellies, sloping shoulders or just men with broader shoulders or bigger arms but with a smaller waist, this is where bespoke shirt sets its mark. Something else that is important to take note of is the armhole measurement. Ready-to-wear shirts would usually have bigger armholes so that it fits the majority of men, yet men are unaware that the extra fabric can look untidy and billow inside the suit jacket. It is only when you have a strong shirt foundation that the suit jacket can layer on smoothly.
With a comprehensive selection of fabric types, colours, 21 collar designs, 12 cuff designs an monogram styles, the number of choices you will be faced with can be intimidating But it is here that you get to play designer, choosing exactly what you want, reflecting something of your character.
Once measurements are taken to the factory, it’s these guys with decades of experience that you’ve got to trust. Starting with the head cutter, he draws the measurement onto a piece of tracing paper where everything is precisely mapped, right down to the 1/8-inch, and not just of the usual small, medium or large template. This part is crucial. If the head cutter draws the measurements wrongly, the steps that follow will only go south. Even with experience of more than 30 years, the head cutter will still take his time to draw one piece of the shirt’s pattern. The measurements and patterns are then carefully translated onto fabric, and then an experienced seamstress will carefully cut you chosen cloth by hand. The measurements of each and every customer is kept for future reference should he want to place another order.
One could sneakily get away with a solid coloured shirt if it’s not sewn properly, but with patterns such as checks or stripes, it’s highly important that the lines and patterns are matched along the seams, laterally and vertically. Our team doesn’t miss out on this step; it’s what makes a bespoke shirt a mater of its class. It’s details such as this that the layman is often unaware of but always appreciates. The same can be said of using a fusing machine. By applying heat on the collar and cuffs, it helps to keep the collar and cuff sections smoother, sturdier, and prevents fraying after extended wear. Hand-worked sewing machines are used to assemble the shirt, bringing every part of the shirt together. Whether you’re choosing a shirt with a plain front or hidden button beneath the placket, Wardrobe uses imported shell buttons for a lavish finish.
Now, you shirt is ready for your fitting. It should look balanced, hanging correctly from your shoulders and sitting nicely on you neck. With our humid weather conditions, you can proudly take off that jacket and feel entirely comfortable in your perfectly fitted shirt.