A True Gentleman Details
21 February 2018

Small details that have impact. That’s what separates icons from everyone else. Here are six simple tips that will make the difference.

#1 The Dimple

The tie dimple is a beautiful effect that can be achieved with almost any Four-in-hand knots. Right before the last pull is made to tighten the tie, use your thumb and middle finger (Two Finger Pinch) to pinch the tie near the knot to shape a “W”. Tighten your tie and give the dimple a final pinch to secure it in place.

#4 Lapel Size Options

The “notch” is the opening where the bottom of the collar meets the top of the lapel usually at a 75 – 90 degree angle. It is often found in single breasted suit jackets, blazers and sports coats. The “Peak” is the traditional and the most formal of the lapels and rather common in formal wear garments such as tuxedos, tailcoats, double breasted jackets and morning coats. A rounded edge “shawl” lapel is most common on dinner jackets and tuxedos. The different sizes of these suit lapels should follow the type of each individual body frame.

#2 The Pocket Square

The Pocket Square is a small accessory that can add a new dimension to a solid colour suit. It can also add a bit of interest to your appearance without trying too hard. It originated in ancient Greece where wealthy Greeks carried around perfumed hankies as early as 500 B.C English and French noblemen carried perfumed and embroidered hankies in order to cover their noses from the stench of the streets and other people. The purists amongst us believe that a jacket should never be worn without a pocket square.

#5 Flap Pockets vs Besom

Formal jackets such as your tuxedos should have a besom pocket, while the lounge suit, blazers and sports coat commonly will have flap pockets to prevent things from falling out.

#3 Functioning Sleeve Buttons

The sleeve button has its function besides looking good on suits. Instead of taking off your jacket, they allow you to roll up your sleeves, setting the suit apart from the mass produced garments. They stand for bespoke tailoring, defining what is otherwise known as the working sleeve, the working cuff or the surgeon cuff.

#6 Trousers Cuffs

With trouser cuffs, it adds weight to the bottom, thus giving a better hang of the trousers. Cuffed trousers are definitely considered the dressier option when wearing a standard suit or the odd trouser, but they are not to appear on black-tie tuxedo trousers or dinner suits. Shorter men should avoid trouser cuffs for it will give the illusion of the legs being cut off.

Remember that double breasted suits should have trouser cuffs to balance off the added bulk at the top. Flat front trousers should not have cuffs because of the clean, no fuss, streamlined look of the flat front. Therefore, it will be inaccurate to add in another element at the bottom of the trousers.